Contrasts - Salt Lake City, UT - 9220 Miles

We spent our first day in Salt Lake City doing the obvious - a trip downtown to see the Mormon Temple and the Temple Square area. Noon on Sunday is slow for the city in general but it's peak hours around the Temple Square complex. Non-Mormons are not allowed in the temple so Terry toured the tabernacle and other buildings while I remained in the well air- conditioned visitor's center. I viewed the exhibits on how Mormons ended up in Utah and the 40-year construction of the temple. Also, computer terminals were available for searching family history databases. I understand the resources available through the Mormon church are the Mecca of genealogists.

The next day we visited the lake and the desert to the west of the city. Everyone should see the Great Salt Lake once but I have no desire to return. The shoreline is mostly undeveloped. Since the lake level can vary by 20 feet and the land is flat, the shoreline can move by 15 miles in some places. We visited one nearly abandoned beachfront facility that, at one time in the past, had to build a rail line to shuttle people to the water. Now the water is within walking distance. Terry stuck her hand in the water but that was as daring as we got.

The only life in the lake is brine shrimp. Ringing the lake is a cloud of sand flies. To me they look and move like fleas, but I'll take the word of whoever named them. The tourist literature says the flies don't bite or land on humans but I beg to differ.

Less than 10 miles west of the lake we entered some of the most inhospitable looking country I've ever seen. The further we went the more salt replaced the desert sand and even your normal desert vegetation disappeared. Even though we were on an interstate a sign at one exit said there were no services for the next 66 miles. That's the longest stretch I've personally encountered. Next we reached an exit (with no services) and a sign saying the next exit was 45 miles so we couldn't turn around before Nevada. That was far enough. We got off, took a picture, and made a u-turn back to Salt Lake City.















The following day we headed east. The changes encountered going 20 miles east versus west were remarkable. Rather than salt deserts we were in the mountains and ski areas of the 2002 Winter Olympics. At an intersection we saw a sign saying "Ski Resorts" and pointing up a mountain. Having nothing better to do we turned and quite by accident ended up at the Sundance Ski Resort. We rode a lift to the top of the ski slopes. Riding ski lifts in the summer has become one of my new favorite activities since it combines three enjoyable events - nice weather, beautiful scenery, and sitting in a relatively comfy chair. We did have the good sense this time to make it a round trip on the lift rather than walking down. For $10 each I thought Robert Redford would help us get on the lift but I guess he was busy elsewhere.















Coming back we saw a large waterfall coming off the mountains so we stopped. I got a picture of the waterfall along with several young and one not-so-young children playing at the base of the falls.















We leave Salt Lake City on Friday and head to Cheyenne, WY. I hear it's cooler there.

Salt Lake City, UT - 8850 Miles

After our day in Jackson, WY, we drove through the Tetons for two nights in Idaho Falls, ID. We didn't find a great deal of interest in our brief time in town other than a pleasant 5-mile walk along both sides of the Snake River and through downtown before completing the loop. The 95 degree temperatures encountered since gradually wandering back south have us reconsidering our decision not to go back to Canada. A few weeks along the border sound good, but I think we're committed to gradually returning to Texas.















Yesterday during our drive to Salt Lake City we had another of our "just stumbled upon" moments. While looking for a Walmart to replenish supplies we spotted a museum at Hill Air Force Base in Ogden, UT. We were running about two hours ahead of our hotel check-in time so we decided to stop. It turned out to be one of our better stops. The museum had two buildings and an outside area filled with aircraft from the Wright brothers to the present. Planes included B-19, B-24, B-25, B-29, B-52, and B-1 bombers, the SR-71 Blackbird, and various propeller and jet driven fighters and transports. WWII bombers have always fascinated me. I can't imagine being crammed in the turrets with people shooting at you.

We also spent time listening to the stories of a veteran who served as a volunteer docent. He told stories of his own service but most interesting were the stories of his son and nephew currently serving in Afghanistan. His son is a pilot loitering overhead and his nephew trails Taliban until they are in a position where an air strike can be called in. They both use code names during radio transmissions and the cousins only found out months later they had been talking to each other during operations.












































We'll be in Salt Lake City until Friday morning so I'll do laundry while Terry works. I'm not sure where we'll end up next.

Jackson, WY - 8573 Miles

Today we rode a chair lift up Snow King Mountain for the panoramic views of Jackson and the Grand Tetons. The ticket was for a round trip but we decided to make the steep walk down to the base. Fortunately I spotted a bar/restaurant at the base when we were about half way down. My wobbly legs barely got me there. I'll be spending our two days in Idaho Falls recovering. Mountain climbing won't be in my future since I can barely handle mountain descending.

Blasphemy in Wyoming - Jackson Hole WY - 8573 miles

I don't know how many people say this, but I wasn't overly impressed with Yellowstone. Unlike Yosemite or the Grand Canyon where every turn in the road yields a new vista of unimagined beauty, most of Yellowstone is much like the country you pass through on the interstate. It's beautiful country, but not spectacular. The exceptions, of course, are the geothermal aspects of the park and the massive canyon cut through the yellow stone. (Hey, I bet that's how it got it's name.)















We made the obligatory pilgrimage to Old Faithful and had our picture taken in front of what seemed to be an appropriate sign, although they seemed to use an alternate spelling of geezer. It's hard to wander the park and not see many of the hundreds of geysers erupt, but only one is faithful. Another in the same basin as Old Faithful erupted while we were there and shot much higher, I just guess it's not quite as faithful. The average height of an Old Faithful eruption is 130', but others periodically reach 400'-500'.















The pools formed by the bubbling water and the residue left behind form eerie landscapes probably unseen elsewhere.















Seeing the canyon cut by the river was worth the drive to a more remote part of the park. We drove out the south end of Yellowstone and into the Grand Tetons. The Tetons afforded much more impressive views overall than Yellowstone and had smaller crowds.















We spent last night in Jackson, WY - a nice town with about six times the people it should. Walking around town was like trying to walk around Disneyworld. Today will be a ride up a ski lift to the top of a mountain, which is about as close to skiing as I care to get. This afternoon we head to Idaho Falls, ID.

Bozeman, MT - 8035 Miles

We arrived in Bozeman after driving from Spokane through areas that changed from high desert to fir trees and mountains to scattered trees and mountains to treeless rolling hills to fir trees and mountains (again) to high desert (again). Bozeman bills itself as the gateway to Yellowstone. I guess that's true if you are used to your gate being 90 miles from the house.

Bozeman surprised me in two ways. First, I would have bet - and lost - that Bozeman culture was dominated by ranchers and cowboys. In fact driving through the downtown area most establishments were either art galleries, antique shops, pubs, or outdoor cafes. I never thought the terms trendy or chic would apply here.

The second surprise was the bicyclists. I'm used to cyclists ignoring lanes, stop signs, and any other guidelines applying to users of the roadways. Here they stayed in lanes, abided by lights and stop signs, and even used hand signals to communicate turns and stops. I didn't get a close look but I'm guessing this can only be accomplished by requiring shock collars like those used in dog training to be worn at all times. It may be embedded in their helmets, but that's just conjecture on my part.

Tomorrow we head to Yellowstone.

Spokane, WA - 7580 Miles

Friday we crossed most of Washington and reached Spokane in the afternoon. It surprised us how quickly the landscape changed from the mountains, fir trees, and rain forests of the Puget Sound area to the Arizona-like desert heading toward Spokane - not to mention temperatures going from the 60's and 70's to the upper 90's. We may as well be in Texas (almost).















We arrived early enough to stroll through downtown Friday afternoon and evening. Spokane has a vibrant downtown area. Unfortunately the total downtown is about three times the size of the vibrant part. This resulted in the active area being ringed by entire blocks of empty storefronts and buildings for lease except for the occasional tattoo parlor.

Today we returned downtown to visit a large park straddling the Spokane River. Like most northern cities, it is impossible to spend any time and not come across one or more festivals, concerts, or gathering of some sort. Among our encounters were more Thunderbirds and belly dancers than I've seen in one place at one time.















Also scattered across the park were an antique car club, a celebration of the park's 100 year-old carousel, and a kilted group of men with drums and bagpipes.

In a flour mill converted to shops and restaurants we saw aerial photos of the city in 1934, 1974, and 1984. In 1934 the park area was covered by industrial buildings and downtown rail lines. In 1974 these had been cleared to create space for some sort of expo held that year. It showed an array of exposition buildings, flags, and rides much like any fair. In 1984 most of those buildings had been cleared leaving the park pretty much as it is today. I don't think they have a newer picture because I couldn't see any significant difference between that photo and downtown as it exists today.

These are pictures of the Spokane River and a fountain in the park.

Moving On - Olympia, WA - 7220 Miles

We've managed to stay nearly three weeks in Olympia without being thrown out by Terry's brother and his family. The time has come, however, to move on so we head east to Spokane on Friday. As a public service for others contemplating an extended stay with family, I'm providing the following information.

Top 10 Signs You May Have Overstayed Your Welcome

10. When walking the neighborhood, all the residents wave to you.

9. You transfer your prescriptions to a local pharmacy.

8. You start a conversation with, "It gets dark earlier and earlier."

7. More than one of the Walmart greeters say, "Hello again" when you come in.

6. You can tell, by name, which neighborhood dog is barking through the night.

5. At meals everyone goes to their usual seat without an impromptu game of musical chairs.

4. Your host comes home from work in the evening and asks you, "What came in the mail today?"

3. You know which gas station has the lowest price and the size and direction of the last three price changes.

2. Your hostess, while planning a trip to the grocery store, asks you, "Are we out of milk?"

1. You find your host in the basement cleaning his guns.

My New Friend - Olympia, WA - 7160 Miles

Since completing my animal interaction studies from the deck, I've been spending time with my new best friend - the hammock. Shortly after our arrival I tried the "lower hammock". This instrument of torture was called a parachute hammock, I believe, because of the material used in its construction. The hammock was strung unevenly between two trees and above some seriously sloped ground. Entering was easier than expected, but once in the hammock enveloped me much as a Venus Fly Trap would. Though comfortable, I immediately knew getting out would not be an easy process. I figured I might as well enjoy it so I spent about an hour right on that edge of almost asleep and almost awake. Inevitably the time came to move on so I started thrashing my arms and legs with no success, always ending in the exact same position. I had my cell phone and internally debated which would be less humiliating - calling 911 or Terry for rescue. I was not yet to the point where either seemed viable. Finally accepting I could throw myself over the edge of the hammock but would have little control over what body parts would hit the ground first (or even second), I planned my next escape attempt. I struggled until getting my center of gravity above and outside the edge of the hammock causing it to spit me out. After significant stumbling on the slope of the hill I managed to grasp a nearby tree, but hands and feet were all that touched the ground.


I had given up on hammocks until one day, while alone, I tried the "upper hammock". This one seemed much more promising. It sat on level ground and had support pieces preventing the sides from enveloping me as the other hammock had. Clearly designed for the aged and infirm such as myself, it was equally comfortable without sealing me inside. I watched the clouds pass overhead while the breeze sustained a slight rocking back and forth and soon returned to my preferred state of semi-consciousness. Getting up was only slightly more complicated than getting out of bed. I don't know where our next home will be, but it may be planned around a hammock.

Chillin' - Olympia, WA - 7020 Miles

We've managed nearly two weeks at my brother-in-law's house without being thrown out. I continue to spend much of my time relaxing on the deck studying the animals below. I've learned roosters don't crow at dawn; they crow pretty much whenever the Hell they want to. I've learned the main function of the llamas is to protect the sheep from marauding coyotes. If a coyote is spotted, the sheep gather behind the llamas forming their own little order of battle. Also while many things send both dogs barking and scurrying toward the barn or pasture, others cause only the younger dog to move while the older stays behind with a "call me if you need me" look on his face. I identify more with the older dog although I can't think of anything at the moment that would send me scurrying.

Mick sometimes splits wood to add to the pile. I helped by splitting one piece, but after doing the math and realizing wood burns faster than I am capable of splitting it, and with only four months until winter sets in, it seemed the prudent action was handing the axe back to Mick. Terry helped gather the split wood while my biggest contribution turned out to be taking a picture of the event. I also got a picture of Maggie riding Phoenix.















One day Terry and I, along with Gus, drove along the Hood Canal - a leg of the Puget Sound. I'm told the Hood Canal is one of only two fjords in the US. Not knowing the technical definition of a fjord, I'll just take their word for it.















We stopped at a state park along the way to watch people gather shellfish at low tide. Approaching an older couple along the shore Terry asked, "What are you looking for, clams or oysters?"

"Whatever we can find," the man said as his wife grinned and held up a newly discovered clam. "Here, let me show you." He started walking a short distance to where they kept their catch.

"I don't want to take you away from what you're doing," Terry said.

"I'm not doing anything," he replied as his squatting wife continued digging feverishly. I suddenly felt a strong bond to this man.

He explained the tricks of the shellfish trade revealing where you would look for clams vs oysters vs mussels. He told that an individual can harvest 18 oysters a day and either 40 or four pounds of clams (whichever you get to first). He also told of being fined $250 because he and his wife had 36 oysters in one bucket instead of 18 each in two buckets. I'm sure that somehow helped save the environment, but I'm not sure how. Someone (besides me) had too much time on their hands.

At another park we could look into the crystal-clear water and see starfish, crab, and jellyfish. We watched two crabs fight it out over a mussel while a third feasted on a jellyfish. For some reason I thought the jellyfish would win out but it turns out its defenses were pretty much useless against a crab. Crabs would climb over starfish but they seemed pretty disinterested in each other.

I took a picture of Gus as he went to check out several nearby starfish. The Hood Canal was so clear you almost can't tell in the photo the starfish were under water. The shoreline is made up almost completely of shells. Most are oyster although clams, mussels, and crab are mixed in. You have to dig through several layers of shells to get to sand. Turning over rocks causes at least half a dozen small crab to scramble under the closest hiding spot before the seagulls spot them.















Making smores one evening just before sunset (or in the gloaming as Linda says).

We'll be here until Friday and have decided against continuing north to Canada from here. I don't think I've fully recovered from the ugly seagull incident in Victoria. We'll start heading east and south but it looks like it will be much more of a meandering process than simply driving straight back to Texas.

Family Time - Olympia, WA - 6670 Miles

We made it to Olympia this past Monday to visit Terry's brother, Mick, his wife, Linda, and their three kids, Joe, Maggie, and Gus. It'll be nice spending over two weeks in one spot. Mick joined the army at age 50 and recently transferred into special forces while I, on the other hand, can't work up the courage to go through with the colonoscopy my doctor keeps suggesting ever since I turned 50. Our "hotel room" requires sharing a bath, but the rates are right.















These are shots of the house and the view from the deck to their pasture and adjoining pastures of neighbors. The household also includes two horses, Thunder and Phoenix, and two dogs, Hondo and Eli. From the deck I sit and watch their animals along with neighbors' additions to the menagerie including other horses, a small herd of sheep that also includes one seemingly very confused goat, three llamas, and occasionally one or two cows. I can also hear chickens and a rooster but I haven't seen them. It's incredibly serene watching the animals below and figuring out the social hierarchy while observing their interactions. I haven't seen the llamas up close but both Mick and Linda say they are extremely creepy. They stand motionless and stare at you for as long as you are there. It's even worse after they are shorn and naked.















As a dog owner my least favorite task was cleaning the yard but it doesn't seem nearly as bad after watching Linda, Joe, and Gus clean up after the horses with the aid of shovels and a poop trailer. Maggie was responsible for cleaning up in the barn. Meanwhile Terry can keep an eye on things from the deck while putting in a hard day at work.

Mick's pride and joy is the outdoor shower he and Joe built. When he talked to contractors about having materials delivered, their response was often, "You're building what? Don't you have one in the house?"

Outdoor showers must not be very common here. It turns out to be the preferred shower of the house. Anyone using it can sign their name on the shower wall and Terry and I get to add our signatures. The view from the shower is the same as the view from the deck which definitely adds to the experience.

















One of Terry and my first activities was going with Mick and Gus on ATVs up a mountain in a local park. Despite Terry's professional looking appearance astride the ATV, the engine was off and that was the closest she was willing to come to the controls again. She rode behind Mick and quickly learned after one minor mishap that, although she couldn't see ahead, when Mick ducked she should duck because a branch was about to hit her in the face.

It was my first time on an ATV as well. The controls differed from motorcycles more than I expected but I eventually figured it out although the transmission may never recover. We headed out with Gus in the lead, Mick and Terry second, and me an increasingly fading third. I went from watching where Mick was to watching where his cloud of dust hung in the air behind him. Third is definitely the dustiest position and I learned the hard way spitting dust from your mouth doesn't work well if you're moving at any speed. We started on logging roads and with each turn the trail degraded. As we climbed I kept thinking, "It can't get any worse than this" but it could. We ended up on narrow trails covered with large rocks. I would have had to pay close attention just walking over the rocks. Near the top we came to a clearing with a great view of both the southern part of Puget Sound and Mt. Rainier.